Croatia's Adriatic coast is one of Europe's most beautiful — a thousand-kilometre shoreline of medieval walled cities, pine-scented islands, and water so transparently clear and blue that it looks computer-generated. Add Roman ruins, outstanding seafood, and wines that are finally getting global recognition, and Croatia's rise to one of Europe's favourite destinations makes complete sense.
Dubrovnik is Croatia's showpiece. The Old Town, encircled by 13th-century stone walls, is so perfectly preserved it was used as King's Landing in Game of Thrones — and walking the walls at sunset, with the Adriatic below and terracotta rooftops in every direction, is a sight that stays with you. The Stradun, the wide limestone-paved main street, leads through a city that has maintained its character despite becoming a major cruise destination. Visiting in shoulder season — May or September — delivers the beauty with a fraction of the summer crowds.
Split is Croatia's second-largest city and arguably more livable and authentic than Dubrovnik. The old town is built into and around the 1,700-year-old Diocletian's Palace — a Roman emperor's retirement home that became an entire city. People live, eat, and socialise within the ancient walls. The Riva waterfront promenade is the social heart of the city, and ferries to the islands of Hvar, Brac, and Vis depart daily.
The islands are Croatian summer at its best. Hvar is chic and lively, with a handsome Renaissance main square and yacht-filled harbour. Vis, more remote and less developed, has a loyal following among those who prefer quiet coves and excellent restaurant meals to nightlife. Brac offers the famous Zlatni Rat beach — a narrow spit of white pebble that shifts direction with the current.
Plitvice Lakes National Park in the interior is unlike anywhere else in Europe — sixteen terraced lakes connected by waterfalls cascade through forested limestone, the water an impossible shade of turquoise.
Croatian food emphasises fresh Adriatic seafood — grilled fish, black risotto made with cuttlefish ink, and octopus salad are mainstays. Peka, meat or seafood slow-cooked under an ember-covered iron bell, is the traditional preparation worth seeking out in a proper konoba. The best time to visit the coast is May to June or September to October.
