El Salvador is the smallest country in Central America and, for a long time, one of the most overlooked. A recent shift in security, a surfing renaissance along its Pacific coast, and the discovery of its compact but rich collection of Mayan ruins and colonial towns have begun to put it on the traveller's map in a new way.
The Pacific coast is El Salvador's most compelling draw for many visitors. The Surf Route — a string of beach towns from La Libertad to Las Flores — has waves that rival anywhere in Central America. La Libertad's Punta Roca is a legendary right-hand point break. El Sunzal and El Tunco have a laid-back beach town atmosphere with surf schools, seafood shacks, and the easygoing pace of a coast that hasn't yet been fully discovered by resort developers. Sea turtles nest along sections of this coast, and the sunsets over the Pacific are spectacular from the black volcanic sand beaches.
Inland, the Santa Ana Volcano region in the west is worth the climb. Volcan Santa Ana (Ilamatepec) is the country's highest peak at 2,381 metres, and the turquoise-green crater lake at its summit is one of Central America's most surreal landscapes. Nearby Coatepeque Caldera is a crater lake of deep blue water surrounded by forested slopes — swimming in its warm waters while watching the volcano rim above is an experience unique to El Salvador.
The town of Suchitoto on the shore of Lake Suchitlan is El Salvador's most charming colonial town — cobblestone streets, indigo-blue facades, and a thriving arts scene centred on ceramics, weaving, and a local theatre festival. The lake offers kayaking and birdwatching in a peaceful setting far from the tourist trail.
The Ruta de las Flores in the coffee-growing highlands links a series of small towns through flower-draped streets and weekend markets. Nahuizalco is famous for its nocturnal market where goods are still sometimes bartered rather than sold.
Salvadoran food is built around the pupusa — a thick corn tortilla stuffed with cheese, beans, or chicharron and served with curtido (pickled cabbage) and tomato sauce. It is one of Latin America's most satisfying street foods. The best time to visit is November to April, during the dry season.
