Palau: The Ocean Sanctuary That Banned Itself From Tourism to Save Itself
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Palau made an extraordinary decision in 2020: it became the first country in the world to ban sunscreen — containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, chemicals that bleach coral — on the grounds that reef protection outweighs visitor convenience. The country had already required visitors to sign a Palau Pledge — a commitment to behave responsibly toward the natural environment, written in a child's voice asking adults to care for the island — stamped into passports at entry. The marine sanctuary designation of 80 percent of Palau's waters followed.
The marine environment that Palau is protecting is genuinely extraordinary. The Rock Islands — 250 to 300 mushroom-shaped limestone islands rising from a turquoise lagoon — are UNESCO World Heritage and contain reefs with some of the highest marine biodiversity in the world. Jellyfish Lake, one of about five remaining marine lakes where jellyfish evolved in isolation and lost their stinging cells, allows swimmers to float among millions of golden jellyfish. The sharks, manta rays, and Napoleon wrasse of the outer walls exist in densities that diving in Palau produces an experience unlike any other.
Palau's traditional culture is matrilineal — women hold significant authority in the clan structure and in land ownership. The female chief — bilung — and the male chief — ibedul — govern in parallel in traditional communities. The balance of authority between genders in Palauan tradition is more equal than in most Pacific cultures, and the practical effect on social organisation is visible in the respect with which women's decisions about land use and community resources are treated.
