Samoa is the heartland of Polynesia — a pair of volcanic islands in the central South Pacific that many consider to be the cradle of Polynesian culture and navigation. Unlike the heavily touristed destinations of Hawaii or Tahiti, Samoa has retained its traditional way of life with remarkable integrity, and the fa'a Samoa — the Samoan way — remains the organizing principle of daily life in villages across the islands.
The islands of Upolu and Savai'i are both volcanic, dramatically green, and fringed by coral reefs. Apia, the capital on Upolu, is an easy-going town clustered around a natural harbor where Robert Louis Stevenson spent the final years of his life. His house, Vailima, is now a museum where the Scottish author's final chapter can be explored amid original furnishings and gardens. Stevenson is buried on a hill above the house, his epitaph — Requiem — carved into the stone.
The To Sua Ocean Trench on Upolu's south coast is one of the Pacific's most extraordinary swimming holes — a massive natural pit formed by volcanic activity and connected to the ocean by underground tunnels, filled with crystal-clear aquamarine water accessible by a long ladder down the cliff face. Swimming in the trench surrounded by lush tropical garden is a serene and unforgettable experience.
Lalomanu Beach on the southeastern tip of Upolu is consistently ranked among the Pacific's most beautiful beaches — a curve of white sand backed by swaying palms and fringed by a protective reef that keeps the water calm and clear. Traditional fale beach huts available for overnight stays allow visitors to fall asleep to the sound of waves.
Savai'i, the larger island, is less visited and more authentically traditional. The Pe'ape'a Cave contains a colony of cave swiftlets navigating in total darkness using echolocation. The Saleaula Lava Fields preserve the ruins of a village engulfed by the 1905 Matavanu eruption — the church floor visible beneath frozen lava is haunting. The Falealupo Rainforest Preserve protects ancient rainforest and a canopy walk above the trees.
Samoan food is communal and generous — palusami (coconut cream baked in taro leaves), umu (earth oven feast), fresh fish in coconut milk, and papaya. Sunday fiafia (feast) gatherings are the social heart of village life. The best time to visit is May through October during the cooler, drier season.
