Sri Lanka is a teardrop-shaped island off the southern tip of India that manages to contain an extraordinary range of experiences within its compact size. Ancient kingdoms, colonial hill towns, spice-scented forests, elephant corridors, pristine beaches and some of the world's finest tea — all within a few hours of each other. It is a country that rewards the curious traveller and surprises those who thought they already knew Asia.
The Cultural Triangle in the island's north-central region holds Sri Lanka's most iconic sites. Sigiriya is a 5th-century rock fortress rising 200 metres above the surrounding jungle, its summit reached by climbing past spectacular frescoes of celestial maidens painted on the rock face. The gardens at its base are among the oldest landscaped gardens in the world. Nearby Polonnaruwa contains the ruins of a medieval capital — moonstone thresholds, carved Buddhas and bathing pools set among ancient stonework that still communicates power and grace. Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka's oldest city, has a sacred Bodhi tree grown from a cutting of the very tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment.
Kandy is Sri Lanka's cultural heart — a colonial-era hill city set around an artificial lake. The Temple of the Tooth Relic houses Buddhism's most venerated object, a tooth of the historical Buddha enshrined in gold and jewels. The annual Esala Perahera festival fills Kandy's streets with caparisoned elephants, fire dancers and traditional drummers in one of Asia's most spectacular celebrations.
The Hill Country that fans out from Kandy is tea-plantation country. The Nuwara Eliya region — misty, cool and green — produces some of the world's finest Ceylon tea. Riding the train from Kandy to Ella through this landscape is frequently described as one of Asia's most beautiful rail journeys, winding through mist-draped mountains and vertiginous viaducts while tea pickers move through the terraced fields below.
Ella itself is a small hill town popular with travellers for its hiking. The walk to Little Adam's Peak offers panoramic views over valleys and waterfalls. Nine Arches Bridge, a colonial-era railway viaduct hidden in the jungle, is one of Sri Lanka's most photographed spots.
Wildlife is a serious draw. Yala National Park in the south holds one of the world's highest densities of leopards — sighting one on a jeep safari here is more likely than almost anywhere else on Earth. Elephant gatherings at Minneriya National Park during the dry season bring hundreds of elephants to a single water source in what is called The Gathering — the largest assembly of wild Asian elephants anywhere. Whale watching off the southern coast near Mirissa from November to April produces blue whale sightings at close range.
The southern coast from Galle to Tangalle offers colonial-era fort architecture, surf breaks, sea turtle nesting beaches and excellent seafood. Galle Fort — built by the Portuguese and expanded by the Dutch — is a UNESCO World Heritage Site where historic streets are now lined with boutique hotels and rooftop cafes.
Sri Lankan food is bold and rewarding. Rice and curry — typically a dozen small dishes served on a banana leaf — is the essential meal. Hoppers (bowl-shaped fermented rice crêpes) with an egg cooked in the centre are a breakfast staple. Kottu roti, chopped flatbread stir-fried with vegetables and meat, is street food at its most satisfying. The spices — cinnamon, cardamom, curry leaf, black pepper — are grown here and taste entirely different from their dried imported versions.
Sri Lanka is a compact island with a big soul. It takes only a few days before it starts to feel like home.
